DVD To MPEG4 Guide V1.12
I no longer maintain the DVD to MPEG4 guide as the information was getting very old. I recomend you visit http://www.clonead.co.uk/.
Index
Software Required
DVD Ripping
MPEG4 Encoding
Problem DVD's and Suggested Workarounds
Alternate Ripping/Encoding Method
News & Updates
5th December 2000
However I have found a bug where if you select a .IFO file to extract it will not extract
it. This means that it cannot be used with the alternate ripping/encoding method. I
Suggest you install both versions and just use 1.64 to extract the .IFO file.
The following software is required to be able to rip a DVD and convert it into MPEG4.
Run CladDVD and select the desired output directory and press the 'Decrypt Movie' button. It's as simple as that.
Make sure the 'MultiAngle' option stays ticked so that if any DVD's are ripped which contain multiple angles then the additional angles are skipped otherwise you will get strange effects!

The 'MultiRegion' option removes the region protection but only has an effect when the entire DVD is ripped and so is not of any use for our purpose.
The 'No Macro' removes the Macrovision information imbedded within the video stream and may be of use if you wish to do something else with the extracted files.
The 'Merge MM' option combines all the extracted VOB files into one large VOB file. This only works on NTFS (NT,Win2000) partitions because of the 4GB file limit on FAT partitions.
MPEG4 Encoding



FlasK MPEG supports the decoding of MPEG and Dolby Digital audio (not DTS). If the film is
available with a Dolby Digital 2.0 (sometimes called Dolby Surround) audio track then
convert that one as it has a much more suitable dynamic range. Dolby Digital 5.1 has a
very large dynamic range so you have to turn the volume up quite high to hear the quiet
sections and the louder sections are much louder (Even home cinema decoders have their
default set to reduce the dynamic range slightly!). If this is not available then
you will have to use the Dolby Digital 5.1 track. If the large dynamic range bothers you
then there are tools available to reduce the dynamic range.
How do you know what audio format is which?
You will have to proceed on until you start the decoding process at which point you can
see how many audio tracks it contains.

Films are shot at 23.975fps and that is the rate that they are played back at in the
cinema. When films are being converted to the NTSC format for the USA it needs to be
converted to 30fps. The way that this is done it to duplicate or interpolate every 4th
frame therefore turning film into 29.97fps which is close enough to the 30fps NTSC
standard. When films are being converted to the PAL format for the UK it needs to be
converted to 25fps. The way that this is done is that the film is actually played at 25fps
and the tone of the audio track is compensated for the higher playback speed. This is the
reason why UK released of films are sometimes stated as being shorter than the USA even
though the content is identical!
When converting NTSC R1 DVD's I normally set the frame rate to 23.976fps and turn on the
'Reconstruct progressive images' option. Without this option set you can often see jagged
lines at the edges of objects which are moving horizontally on the screen. Some people say
that you should set the frame rate to 29.97fps but I have found that the very slight loss
you get with using the slower framerate is much more than compensated by being able to use
a higher quality value on the compression setting.
When converting PAL R2 DVD's I normally set the frame rate to 25fps as I have always found
that this is the rate detected by the software and the one which looks the best. Don't use
23.976 as the frame rate because if you do you will notice a judder on the screen every
couple of seconds because of the 2 dropped frames (you can't drop a single frame if the
source is interlaced).
If when viewing the encoding while it is in progress you notice that you can see jagged
lines on the horizontal moving objects then you will need to turn on the 'de-interlace
video' option although this will make the encoding take about 50% longer. Whenever I have
had to use this option I have also noticed that the source format alternates between
'progressive' and 'interlaced' so look out for this.



From here you can crop the black bars off the top and bottom of the source film if it has
an aspect ratio of 2.35:1 or 1.85:1. Click the 'Reset settings' button to reset everything
and then check the 'Crop' box. Next reduce the height in the crop area to 416 of the film
is 1.85:1 or 320 if it is 2.35:1. Then use the 'Top offset' and the 'Height' within the
Output Size area to adjust the preview such that the entire picture just about fits on the
screen. Click the 'Hide' button and then the 'OK' button.

Now is a good time to run up a bitrate calculator to see what the maximum bitrate can be.
Because the codec is adaptive you can never guess accurately what the average bitrate will
be at the end of the film. In time you will get a feel for what to use. Generally for
2.35:1 films a common average bitrate is between 550 and 750. For 1.85:1 the average is
about 100 higher. Therefore if you have a 1.85:1 film which because of it's length you
need the bitrate to be less than 700 you may wish to initially reduce the target bitrate
from the default 910 to about 750. You will need to encode at least 25% of the film to get
a good idea of the average bitrate as often it varies throughout the film.

When you have decided what bitrate to use click on the 'Configure' button and select the
desired bitrate. Keep the other settings the same. Press 'OK' on the two windows.



This shows the format of the file being converted and the average bitrate so far. Note
that the 'Remaining Time' indicator does not work correctly. It starts reporting incorrect
values at between 25-33% into the conversion and at 50% onwards it reports '00:00:00'.
Alternate Ripping/Encoding Method
When I tried extracting some films in the normal manner upon playing back I found that at either the beginning or end of the film some sections seemed to repeat themselves. Upon further inspection I realised that they were infact separate languages. In order to cure this problem I used CladDVD to extract the files directly and then used the 'Open DVD' feature of Flask MPEG to open and compress the correct frames of the film. Here is a procedure to do what I did. In light of me seeing more and more films which do this and the minimal additional time it takes to extract the extra files I now recommend that it be done this way.
Use CladDVD and turn off the 'MultiAngle' tickbox as it is not compatible with the
'Open DVD' feature of FlasK as FlasK will do this anyway.
Select all the VOB files and the corresponding .IFO for the main group of VOB files which
will be the main movie. You may see groups starting with VTS_01, VTS_02, VTS_03 etc.. but
just extract the group with the largest size. Then press the 'DeCrypt Files' button as
shown below.

NOTE that on my Windows2000 machine CladDVD 1.65 would not save the .IFO file. I had to run version 1.64 to save this particular file.
Next run FlasK MPEG and choose the 'Open DVD' option from the 'File' menu and the
following box will appear.

Choose the .IFO file and the following box will appear.

The section 'DVD Audio Tracks' is basically similar to before where you have to select the
audio track to convert except this time it presents it in a different way.
The 'DVD titles' section enables you to select the angle that you wish to convert. I have
always chosen 'angle 0' without any problems.
Now convert the film as per normal.